Live in Greece
Sir and Madam
I write from the island of Astypalaia in eastern Greece, and the Aegean sea. Apart from in aeroplanes, 32,000 feet above the land, it is as far this way that I have been. The island is shaped like a butterfly, with two 'wings' - east and west, and an isthmus joining what is about 18 km in length.
The island is nearly all rock. Thrown up by an eruption centuries ago, it has been the home to a small and resilient population. Currently 1,334 but which swells in number in the summer months. It being October, the hotels and restaurants are mostly closed, and those which are open are in process of closing down for 6 months.
Goats: well, I know we all joke about them, but they are hardy, friendly, remember your name in the morning and do not talk about private things with other people. There are many goats on this island.
Image: two old goats
The island is famous for its part finished temple to Apollo - seen here. I think there may have been more to it at some time, but this image depicts just the door. Obviously it was to be a temple for very tall people.
Image: Rosa, in Sienna, where Ayrton was born. He had trouble getting his car started during a formula 1 gig, and when it was going, it stopped too suddenly. Not like Rosa, who, can both drink wine and smoke a pipe at the same time.
I write from the island of Astypalaia in eastern Greece, and the Aegean sea. Apart from in aeroplanes, 32,000 feet above the land, it is as far this way that I have been. The island is shaped like a butterfly, with two 'wings' - east and west, and an isthmus joining what is about 18 km in length.
The island is nearly all rock. Thrown up by an eruption centuries ago, it has been the home to a small and resilient population. Currently 1,334 but which swells in number in the summer months. It being October, the hotels and restaurants are mostly closed, and those which are open are in process of closing down for 6 months.
Goats: well, I know we all joke about them, but they are hardy, friendly, remember your name in the morning and do not talk about private things with other people. There are many goats on this island.
Image: two old goats
Oops, sorry, wrong selection [or so it seems]:
Image erratum: goats:
The trip working backwards to tomorrow; we arrived at this Island 4 days ago by roll on roll off ferry/ship at 5am. A taxi to our accommodation; villas above the small outlying village of Livadi.
Image: your correspondent beside the pizza BBQ at 'Kalderini' on Astypaliai - meaning 'traditional houses'
The ferry to here was an Island hoping arrangement. First, from Crete, we arose at 4am to get 150km from where we were, to the terminal capital of Heraklion. The ferry departed at 8.40am via 4 islands, to arrive at Naxos (the home of the Compact Disc - or CD as we know them). A 10 hour layover until midnight, and thence a 5 hour trip on a near empty 2,000 seat ferry of the Blue Star Line, thus arriving early morn.
Naxos is a gentle island, with many restaurants along the harbour, and bars and bistros set back a little
Crete - our initial port was Chania, and a bustling tourist town, with hundreds or restaurants and trinket shops. Seafood abundant, and inexpensive. Just past the 'season' accommodation was 4 star but also inexpensive.
Our journey to Chania was from the world's great Greek city: Melbourne. Well, via Athens. Leaving Athens in the evening from the nearby port town of Piraeas -
Athens: full of young people, and inexpensive for food and wine, the centre of the city was compact and easy to move around. Up the hill is the Acropolys. That means "hill above Athens". And within a number of severely destroyed or dismembered old houses, is one especially important to the Greeks and the world: the Parthenon. Most other cities don't have the Parthenon. There are 4 in Melbourne, Parthenon Cafe Number 1, Parthenon Pizza Number 2, and Parthenon Souvlaki Builders Number 3. There is one other.
Image: the one Parthenon which is not in Melbourne. But it is broken, after the well known 'Gun Powder plot of 1640, and some troublesome earthquakes between the original building some 500 years before Christ and now.
Image: another and a younger goat, one which was photographed at the cricket at the TCA in Hobart in 1976. This goat is referred to as "the Goat which prefers to keep out of the wind" - or in sailor parlance: "The Leigh Goat".
It drinks beer and listens to the cricket on the radio whilst watching it.
But to return; around 23rd Sept we were in Venice, and had the benefit of an old hotel near San Marco's Piazza. From there we headed by fast train to Napoli and over to Capri. Again, fortunate to have missed the heat of the summer and the throng or touristos, it was still chock a block full of punters, and guides, and little cars and motorbikes.
Whilst Capri may have been the place to be seen in 1957, and Sophia Loren and Gina and Rex and all those super stars of the film and cinema were there for a break from couch testing with Harvey Weinstein, the island has become overrun and overworked.
Perhaps at night it would be gentler when the ferries return to Sorrento.
So returning to today; We have rented a little Fiat model Panda, with the smallest engine apart from a gnat. It has taken us to the east end of Astyapalaia, and tomorrow, it shall take us to the west end.
Our breakfast is at 10am, and takes 2 hours - our host Katarina makes different food each day, and adds to that the usuals; eggs and Greek coffee, squeezed orange juice and little round things with cheese in them. We are very fortunate, as we sit on the balcony overlooking the bay. We expect to see Julio down by the seaside.
Over and out for the present:
Andre Gromyko II
One last image:
A goat about to be shorn for his wool, which the Greeks will send to Emilgelda Zegna to make into a coat to be work by the very rich and famous.
Tuesday, 10th October 2017
But, it behoves me to tell you more of this island. Information is not easy to glean. The Greek language, written, is not in my area, and that spoken does not translate easily from those who know it well, into English unless they also know that well. And have we all not suffered from the manual for our Chinese electronic goods?
You will recall when you did Geography or Social Studies, or anything, by way of learning, the teacher wished to take you back to historical basics, to the geography and creation of the place from the earth's origins (well we all know that God created the earth in 7 days, then was asked to create woman or a freeway from San Francisco to Honolulu - He asked of the criteria for the creation of woman, and when man explained what he expected, asked "how many lanes for that freeway?"
Astypalea or Astypaliai is in the Dodacanese group of islands. Whatever that means, is that there are a number of them. As I look out my 2nd story window, I can see 12 such islands within view. I remember too that a group of expatriate Dodacanese in Hobart, some time ago before the limitation period now for commencing a criminal action, had a meeting room above the little corner shop at Harrington and Collins Streets, and played their card games. Their wit and intelligence, as well as that of their chosen legal counsel, defeated the forces of darkness and evil (the Crown Prosecutor) when charged with unlawful gambling. 'Surely it is not gambling to put a pile of cash into a pot, and then take out just that which the cards decree is rightfully that of the taker?'
I mentioned that it is baked rock with little significant vegetation, but the rain fall is regular during the winter months, and stone turns to dirt and piles up in the valleys, and the assiduous farmers grow the materials for Greek salad in those valleys: peppers/capsicum, olives, cucumber, tomato, red onion, and the ever present tinkling goats provide the fetta cheese. I can hear the announcing goat bells just now outside my window. They thrive (or not - who knows) on the saltbush.
Before reviewing the populous, and their amenities, we should look further at the geography and history.
Mythology: Astypalaia was the daughter of Agenor and Tilefassas Agriope, and sister of Europe and related to Phoenix (son of Agnor) and Perimidis. You will readily see the important names there: Europe - taken for the whole of the major continent, and Phoenix, the flying beast which burnt to ashes but rose again to conquer - or in Australian mythology, rose to again set up dodgy commercial pyramid schemes from which to take money from the unwise.
Astypalaia's union with Poseidon gabe birth to other greats: Eurypylus and Agkaios and Leleges King, who took part in the Argonauts.
The geological location (near to what is now Turkey) yet quite a long way from Finland), along with abundance of natural harbours, contributed to a trading post with widespread early movement of obsidian to the coasts.
Volcanic eruptions at Santorini (perhaps 170km away) devestated the early attempts at nuclear fission, and a concrete sarcophogis houses the first ever Tsumani invaded power station.
Skip now to the 5th century BC: whilst some uncertainty about the truth and myth, it was early documented during this classical era that Astypalaia was a member of the First Athenian Alliance, and unlike Western Australia, readily joined in the paying of taxes to the alliance. The first taxes were of course goods based, tariffs and such, but which were later changed to a wide based GST - to avoid individual tax evasion, and applied to most things except tampons, condoms, education and the provision of hospital services.
During this period to the birth of Christ, many peronalities were around. the famouse canary grass tyrant of Agripento in Sicily, the Cleomedes medalist - boxer who was stripped of his vitory because he killed his opponent, and turned to Astypalaia from paranoia, and brought down a column kataplakonontas housing 60 students. This was the first protest against student unrest, and is often looked at askanse as an over-reation to foreign students taking the places of locals at universities.
The period 323 BC to 146 BC is the hellenistic period, and Asypalaia's most glorious time. State affairs were ruled by such greates as Lagidae and Ptolemaic. Ports were used by traders crossign the eastern Mediterranean. Growth and prsperity prevailed. Coins and currency commenced, and hold the faces of Perseus Dionysus, Asclepius and Athene.
In 105 BC an alliance with Rome, which lasted nearly 400 years, saw Asty as a free federal city. Somewhat unlike the province of Hutt River in Western Australia. Indeed, nothing like it.
Rome agreed to protect Asty and vice versa (dirty Italian poetry).
During the Roman periiod to 300 AD, the major event was the signing of a treaty a copy of which is in the sanctuary of Zeus in kryptolio Rome and half is in the temple of Athena on Astypalaia. Safe harbours were protected by the Romans to some degree, as pirates were commonplace at the time. To some degree accommodation with the pirates was made, as Rome was a long way away, and the promises in the decrees and treaties were not always capable of immediate honour.
Christianity was imposed somewhere between 350 and 450 AD and non acceptance was a criminal offence. Ancient temles were destroyed and / or converted into Christian places of worship. Many basilica remains are scattered over the island. The marvelous Castellano (castle) of Saint George remains at the top of the mountain/hill above the main and old town -indeed is the old town. But this also coincided with the many pirate raids.
1200 to 1530 AD: Franks, Burgundy, Flemish, German, Catalan, and especially Venetians conquered Constantinople and began the Venetian period in the Greek market. Venice realised the importance of islands and ports for economic development. Teach that to the Tasmanian Governments.
Astypalaia was ruled from Naxos under Marco Sanudo from 1207. He distributed pieces and power to his comrades, much as I do with my friends. The islanders became serfs, losing their property, and were farmers under the orders of the feudal lord.
Quirinus Giovanni I fortified the ancient acropolis on the island. Turkoman pirates continued seizing such assets as they wanted, and created or left unbearable living conditions, somewhat like those in those suberbs of Hobart on the Eastern Shore: Howrah, Bellerive, Opossum Bay.
In 1536 a treaty of alliance with King Francis I of France and Suleiman A of the grand Ottoman Empire expelled the Venetians, and everyone now uses double shuttered windows or curtains. The Ottoman period of 1530 to 1912 followed: Ottoman and Spanish influence. As we are seeing today in Catalonia, everyone wants to get away from the Spanish in the long run.
Italian occupation: 1912 to 1945: spells chaos. Take the Vespa, the Lambretta, and the nasty repair and maintenance expence for your Lamborghini and Ferrari cars!
Suffice to say that Greece, and Atypalaia as part of it, was in a terrible financial position after the 2nd world war. To make things worse, it was handed to the English after the war, but Greek military commander Admiral Pericles Ioannides lowered the British flag from headquarters of Rhodes on 31st March 1945: with the Dodecanese incorporated into the rest of Greece on 7th March 1948.
The first Mayor Anthoy Kostopoulos 1945-1947 was faced with huge problems. He built the town hall, and to 'build churches, some had to be demolished'. This made many reactionaries, especially woman (apparently).
A large destructive earthquake occured in the seabed between Amorgos and astypalaia, causing collapse of houses in the Castle and crushed fishing boats and crops. This was July 1956 - within our memory.
Not only the world economic recession or GFC of 2007 but also a signicifant recession during the early 1960s saw mass migration, including to Australia and Canada. Hard Times.
1996 was a turning point, with infrastructure and livelihood opportuities to the island, but only after migration and hard times had been seen. Several projects were launched: dam construction secondary schools, kindergarten, medical clinic, archeaological museum, roads and sea transport facilities, and now tourism.
The quality of life has seen sweeping change, with different dimensions with general development - clean water, purification, modern sewers, water mains, waste removal - and resutant decent living standards for residents and visitors.
My conclusion: what a beautiful island, and place. The people have a complexity as well as a simplicity - a fishing boat came in to the port yesterday afternoon and a swarm of locals surrounded it and bartered the stock of fish - which they took home for immediate consumption. No intermediary.
If there is inaccuracy, or more accurately, where there is inaccuracy in the above, treat it as reason to explore and find out the true story.
AG II
You will recall when you did Geography or Social Studies, or anything, by way of learning, the teacher wished to take you back to historical basics, to the geography and creation of the place from the earth's origins (well we all know that God created the earth in 7 days, then was asked to create woman or a freeway from San Francisco to Honolulu - He asked of the criteria for the creation of woman, and when man explained what he expected, asked "how many lanes for that freeway?"
Astypalea or Astypaliai is in the Dodacanese group of islands. Whatever that means, is that there are a number of them. As I look out my 2nd story window, I can see 12 such islands within view. I remember too that a group of expatriate Dodacanese in Hobart, some time ago before the limitation period now for commencing a criminal action, had a meeting room above the little corner shop at Harrington and Collins Streets, and played their card games. Their wit and intelligence, as well as that of their chosen legal counsel, defeated the forces of darkness and evil (the Crown Prosecutor) when charged with unlawful gambling. 'Surely it is not gambling to put a pile of cash into a pot, and then take out just that which the cards decree is rightfully that of the taker?'
I mentioned that it is baked rock with little significant vegetation, but the rain fall is regular during the winter months, and stone turns to dirt and piles up in the valleys, and the assiduous farmers grow the materials for Greek salad in those valleys: peppers/capsicum, olives, cucumber, tomato, red onion, and the ever present tinkling goats provide the fetta cheese. I can hear the announcing goat bells just now outside my window. They thrive (or not - who knows) on the saltbush.
Before reviewing the populous, and their amenities, we should look further at the geography and history.
Mythology: Astypalaia was the daughter of Agenor and Tilefassas Agriope, and sister of Europe and related to Phoenix (son of Agnor) and Perimidis. You will readily see the important names there: Europe - taken for the whole of the major continent, and Phoenix, the flying beast which burnt to ashes but rose again to conquer - or in Australian mythology, rose to again set up dodgy commercial pyramid schemes from which to take money from the unwise.
Astypalaia's union with Poseidon gabe birth to other greats: Eurypylus and Agkaios and Leleges King, who took part in the Argonauts.
The geological location (near to what is now Turkey) yet quite a long way from Finland), along with abundance of natural harbours, contributed to a trading post with widespread early movement of obsidian to the coasts.
Volcanic eruptions at Santorini (perhaps 170km away) devestated the early attempts at nuclear fission, and a concrete sarcophogis houses the first ever Tsumani invaded power station.
Skip now to the 5th century BC: whilst some uncertainty about the truth and myth, it was early documented during this classical era that Astypalaia was a member of the First Athenian Alliance, and unlike Western Australia, readily joined in the paying of taxes to the alliance. The first taxes were of course goods based, tariffs and such, but which were later changed to a wide based GST - to avoid individual tax evasion, and applied to most things except tampons, condoms, education and the provision of hospital services.
During this period to the birth of Christ, many peronalities were around. the famouse canary grass tyrant of Agripento in Sicily, the Cleomedes medalist - boxer who was stripped of his vitory because he killed his opponent, and turned to Astypalaia from paranoia, and brought down a column kataplakonontas housing 60 students. This was the first protest against student unrest, and is often looked at askanse as an over-reation to foreign students taking the places of locals at universities.
The period 323 BC to 146 BC is the hellenistic period, and Asypalaia's most glorious time. State affairs were ruled by such greates as Lagidae and Ptolemaic. Ports were used by traders crossign the eastern Mediterranean. Growth and prsperity prevailed. Coins and currency commenced, and hold the faces of Perseus Dionysus, Asclepius and Athene.
In 105 BC an alliance with Rome, which lasted nearly 400 years, saw Asty as a free federal city. Somewhat unlike the province of Hutt River in Western Australia. Indeed, nothing like it.
Rome agreed to protect Asty and vice versa (dirty Italian poetry).
During the Roman periiod to 300 AD, the major event was the signing of a treaty a copy of which is in the sanctuary of Zeus in kryptolio Rome and half is in the temple of Athena on Astypalaia. Safe harbours were protected by the Romans to some degree, as pirates were commonplace at the time. To some degree accommodation with the pirates was made, as Rome was a long way away, and the promises in the decrees and treaties were not always capable of immediate honour.
Christianity was imposed somewhere between 350 and 450 AD and non acceptance was a criminal offence. Ancient temles were destroyed and / or converted into Christian places of worship. Many basilica remains are scattered over the island. The marvelous Castellano (castle) of Saint George remains at the top of the mountain/hill above the main and old town -indeed is the old town. But this also coincided with the many pirate raids.
1200 to 1530 AD: Franks, Burgundy, Flemish, German, Catalan, and especially Venetians conquered Constantinople and began the Venetian period in the Greek market. Venice realised the importance of islands and ports for economic development. Teach that to the Tasmanian Governments.
Astypalaia was ruled from Naxos under Marco Sanudo from 1207. He distributed pieces and power to his comrades, much as I do with my friends. The islanders became serfs, losing their property, and were farmers under the orders of the feudal lord.
Quirinus Giovanni I fortified the ancient acropolis on the island. Turkoman pirates continued seizing such assets as they wanted, and created or left unbearable living conditions, somewhat like those in those suberbs of Hobart on the Eastern Shore: Howrah, Bellerive, Opossum Bay.
In 1536 a treaty of alliance with King Francis I of France and Suleiman A of the grand Ottoman Empire expelled the Venetians, and everyone now uses double shuttered windows or curtains. The Ottoman period of 1530 to 1912 followed: Ottoman and Spanish influence. As we are seeing today in Catalonia, everyone wants to get away from the Spanish in the long run.
Italian occupation: 1912 to 1945: spells chaos. Take the Vespa, the Lambretta, and the nasty repair and maintenance expence for your Lamborghini and Ferrari cars!
Suffice to say that Greece, and Atypalaia as part of it, was in a terrible financial position after the 2nd world war. To make things worse, it was handed to the English after the war, but Greek military commander Admiral Pericles Ioannides lowered the British flag from headquarters of Rhodes on 31st March 1945: with the Dodecanese incorporated into the rest of Greece on 7th March 1948.
The first Mayor Anthoy Kostopoulos 1945-1947 was faced with huge problems. He built the town hall, and to 'build churches, some had to be demolished'. This made many reactionaries, especially woman (apparently).
A large destructive earthquake occured in the seabed between Amorgos and astypalaia, causing collapse of houses in the Castle and crushed fishing boats and crops. This was July 1956 - within our memory.
Not only the world economic recession or GFC of 2007 but also a signicifant recession during the early 1960s saw mass migration, including to Australia and Canada. Hard Times.
1996 was a turning point, with infrastructure and livelihood opportuities to the island, but only after migration and hard times had been seen. Several projects were launched: dam construction secondary schools, kindergarten, medical clinic, archeaological museum, roads and sea transport facilities, and now tourism.
The quality of life has seen sweeping change, with different dimensions with general development - clean water, purification, modern sewers, water mains, waste removal - and resutant decent living standards for residents and visitors.
My conclusion: what a beautiful island, and place. The people have a complexity as well as a simplicity - a fishing boat came in to the port yesterday afternoon and a swarm of locals surrounded it and bartered the stock of fish - which they took home for immediate consumption. No intermediary.
If there is inaccuracy, or more accurately, where there is inaccuracy in the above, treat it as reason to explore and find out the true story.
AG II
Comments
Empty headed bilge of the first order without even any redeeming invective content.
"Deposit required. No deposit required". Mindless self-contradiction. Never been anywhere near the Aegean unless I miss my guess! Utter shite!